Comme Des Garcons
Few fashion houses have the cultural gravity of Comme des Garçons. Founded and led by Rei Kawakubo, the label has spent five decades tearing up the rulebook — turning Comme Des Garcons into conceptual sculpture, challenging beauty standards, and quietly reshaping how the market thinks about “commercial” versus “art.” In this post I’ll give a compact history of the house, break down its most recent collections (what Rei showed on the runways in 2024–2025 and early 2025–2026 season cycles), and show practical ways to wear the pieces you asked about — Hoodie, Shirt, Shorts, Sweatshirt, Jacket — followed by a useful FAQ for collectors, shoppers and curious fans.
A quick (non-exhaustive) history in a paragraph
Rei Kawakubo launched Comme des Garçons in Tokyo in 1969 and began showing in Paris in the early 1980s. From the outset the label has been anti-fashion in the sense that it resists seasonal prettiness — instead creating garments that are sculptural, often asymmetrical, distressed, oversized or deceptively unfinished. Over time Comme des Garçons expanded into sub-labels (like Homme Plus, Shirt, and the more accessible PLAY) and retail concepts (most famously Dover Street Market) that allow Kawakubo’s avant-garde work to sit alongside more wearable pieces. The brand’s cultural cachet comes from this tension: uncompromising runway art versus everyday items that still feel charged. (Context from runway and brand coverage cited below.)
What’s new: highlights from the latest collections (2024–2025 → early 2025)
Rei Kawakubo and Comme des Garçons continued to be a headline-maker through the 2024–2025 cycle and into Fall/Winter 2025. A few themes and notable presentations:
Spring/Summer 2025 — “Uncertain Future” and airy experimentation. The spring 2025 collection leaned into transparency and sculptural, almost architectural forms: rigid white openings that softened into quilted silks and oversized sleeves — an exploration of fragility and hope in a fractured world. This season mixed theatrical sculpture with softer, wearable textures.
Homme Plus / Menswear 2025 — political resonance and tailoring reworked. Rei’s menswear shown under Comme des Garçons Homme Plus and other menswear presentations continued to push a political edge — reworking suits, military references and tailoring so that classic jackets and trousers are deconstructed, padded, or reshaped to make new silhouettes. The “To Hell With War” motif and radical reinterpretations of uniforms emerged in FW25 menswear shows.
Fall/Winter 2025 — voluminous minimalism and sculptural restraint. In Fall/Winter 2025 Kawakubo again used exaggerated forms (and at times deliberately “small” expressions with grand effect). Reviews noted the collection’s sculptural quality and Kawakubo’s continued ability to merge the intimate with the monumental.
Commercial verticals and cultural presence. While the runway is radical, Comme des Garçons’ PLAY line — the heart-with-eyes logo pieces — remains a major revenue and cultural gateway, priced accessibly and collaborated with brands like Converse and others, helping sustain the house financially and culturally. Recent reporting highlights Play’s continued commercial strength and reach.
Collector interest. The brand’s historical significance was on clear display during a record-setting auction of Comme des Garçons pieces in Paris — underlining how Kawakubo’s work is read as both fashion and art.
Translating the runway to real life: wearing Comme des Garçons pieces
Hoodie
Comme des Garçons hoodies (often produced under PLAY or seasonal lines) are some of the easiest entry points into the aesthetic. Depending on the sub-label they range from minimal logo drops to wholly reworked silhouettes.
How to style:
Streetwear lean: pair a PLAY heart-graphic hoodie with relaxed denim and high-top sneakers. Let the hoodie be the focal logo piece.
High-low play: wear an oversized CDG hoodie under a structured jacket (see Jacket below) for intentional contrast — hood peeking out beneath a tailored neckline creates a layered, editorial look.
Fit notes: choose slightly oversized for the intended “off-duty” feel; if the hoodie is from a runway-adjacent capsule, sizes can run experimental so check each release’s sizing notes. (See FAQs for authenticity & sizing.)
Shirt
Comme des Garçons’ shirts run the gamut: from sharply tailored shirting (especially under Shirt and Comme des Garçons Shirt) to deconstructed button-downs that look like wearable art.
How to style:
Tailored + rebellious: a crisp CDG shirt under a knitted vest or cropped jacket—adds structure to an otherwise playful ensemble.
Layering: an oversized CDG shirt worn open over a tee (or tied at the waist) gives a nonchalant, Parisian edge.
Dress it up or down: a minimal black or white CDG Shirt piece can anchor a tailored look; the more experimental shirts are better balanced with simple bottoms.
Shorts
Shorts appear across Comme des Garçons lines in surprising forms—pleated, sculpted, or reworked from suiting fabrics.
How to style:
Tailored shorts: pair with a soft knit or simple shirt and loafers for a smart, modern take.
Sport-luxe: PLAY or casual capsule shorts with a hoodie or sweatshirt + chunky sneaker is a safe, youthful look.
Balance proportions: because many CDG tops are voluminous, choose shorts with cleaner lines to avoid visual overload.
Sweatshirt
Comme des Garçons sweatshirts (distinct from hoodies) are often printed, distressed, or layered with unexpected fabrics.
How to style:
Under a blazer — tonal sweatshirt beneath a blazer is a signature Comme play on formality.
Monochrome layering — match a sweatshirt with similar-toned trousers and a statement jacket for an elevated, minimalist mood.
Jacket
Jackets are where Comme des Garçons really show their sculptural talent: modified suits, asymmetric cuts, padded shoulders, deliberate “imperfections,” and architectural draping.
How to style:
Statement jacket + simple base: let a sculptural CDG jacket do the talking — pair with a fitted shirt or thin sweatshirt and neutral trousers.
Street hybrid: wear a slouchy CDG jacket over a hoodie + shorts or baggy denim to mix runway drama with street ease.
Versatility: many jackets read both as art objects and functional pieces — if you own one, keep outfits around it minimal so the silhouette remains the star.
Where to buy
Comme des Garçons stock is available through the brand’s own boutiques (including CDG Paris and CDG Tokyo), Dover Street Market, select luxury department stores, and verified online retailers. For Play and lower-priced items look to official stockists and the brand’s web shop — beware of unauthorized marketplaces for rare or vintage pieces. (See FAQs about authenticity below.)
Care and longevity
Comme des Garçons garments—particularly runway and artisanal pieces—should be treated like investment pieces. Always follow the care label: many experimental fabrics require gentle cleaning or specialist dry-cleaning. For PLAY cotton tees and sweatwear, normal gentle washing is usually fine, but turn printed garments inside out and use a delicate setting. For archival or delicate sculptural garments, consult a specialist conservator if you’re unsure.
FAQs
Q1: What’s the difference between Comme des Garçons (mainline), Comme des Garçons Shirt, Homme Plus and PLAY?
A: The mainline (COMME des GARÇONS) is Rei Kawakubo’s conceptual, experimental runway work (often sculptural and art-driven). Shirt focuses on more wearable shirt-based pieces and shirts-as-object. Homme Plus and the menswear lines reinterpret menswear and tailoring in experimental ways. PLAY is the most accessible sub-label, known for the heart-with-eyes logo and collaborations; it’s commercial and widely distributed.
Q2: Are Comme des Garçons pieces worth the price?
A: It depends on the buyer. Mainline runway pieces are priced for their artistic research, craftsmanship and limited production — many are collectible and appreciate in cultural value. PLAY and diffusion items are more accessible and often seen as entry points. Recent auctions underscore the collectibility of older and runway pieces.
Q3: How do Comme des Garçons sizes fit?
A: Fit varies widely by sub-label and season. PLAY and diffusion items often use conventional sizing; runway and mainline pieces can be intentionally oversized, cropped or altered. Always consult each release’s size guide and, for runway pieces, read reviews or retailer notes. If in doubt, try in-store or choose the size recommended by the retailer for your measurements.
Q4: How to spot authentic Comme des Garçons?
A: Buy from official boutiques, Dover Street Market, authorised luxury retailers or the brand’s site. Look for quality stitching, accurate labels, and consistent logo placement (for PLAY). For rare or vintage items, request provenance or receipts; if a deal looks too good online, be skeptical. (If you’re buying secondhand, use platforms with authentication services.)
Q5: Where should I store expensive Comme des Garçons garments?
A: Store sculptural pieces flat or padded on wide, shaped hangers to protect shoulders. Use breathable garment bags for long-term storage and avoid plastic that traps moisture. For delicate textiles, keep them in a dry, dark environment and check annually. For archival pieces, consult a textile conservator.
Q6: How often does Comme des Garçons do collaborations and who have they worked with recently?
A: Very often. Play’s collaborations (e.g., Converse, K-Way) are examples of the label partnering with lifestyle and footwear brands to produce accessible, model-specific drops. The house also works with artists and galleries for exhibitions and auctions. Recent seasons and commercial tie-ins have been widely reported.
Q7: I want a CDG Jacket for everyday wear. Which line should I look at?
A: For everyday wear, consider Comme des Garçons Shirt or select pieces from Homme Plus that skew more wearable. Play and diffusion labels sometimes have structured outerwear with simpler silhouettes; the mainline jackets are stunning but can be sculptural and dramatic (and delicate). Try in-store and ask about fabric durability.
Q8: Are Comme des Garçons garments sustainable?
A: Comme des Garçons has a complex production footprint like many high-fashion houses. The brand’s focus historically has been on craftsmanship and obscuring the seasonal churn rather than fast trends; however, sustainability credentials vary by piece and season. If eco-credentials are a priority, request materials and production information from the retailer. (For archival pieces, longevity is a sustainability advantage: high-quality garments kept for decades are intrinsically more sustainable than disposable fashion.)
